Paris favorites

There are two more days left of the Paris Spring 17 collections, but I wanted to post my favorites up to this point. Now that I am no longer an editor I look at designer collections differently. Sometimes I appreciate clothes for their craftsmanship, like those at Valentino, and I still get a little excited when a designer pushes the boundaries of fashion like Demna Gvasalia is doing at Balenciaga. But now I mostly care about clothes I want to wear. And can possibly afford.

The Lemaire show, above, is a favorite—I especially like the fluid, full pants with the feminine gathered jackets and blouses. I think it’s a shame that Lemaire no longer designs for Hermes; the duo of Christope Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran have such a sophisticated, pared-down aesthetic that was fitting to the house. But the good news is I can actually afford Lemaire designs, so I shouldn’t really complain.

Khaki pants are getting an update both in silhouette and what they’re worn with such as a floral crop top at Isabel Marant, left, and a more formal floral bolero at Dries Van Noten, right.

If you haven’t noticed a trend, and it is not just because of my personal preferences, relaxed trousers will be important for spring. You have to get the proportions right—smaller top to offset the bigger bottom, but they are worth testing out once they start showing up (far too early) in the stores.

I love the mood of Julie de Libran’s Sonia Rykiel collection, above. The clothes are a bit too loose for reality (I think), but maybe they’ll be hemmed in once they hit the stores. And one piece—the tunic, or the pants, would do.

Finally, I always crave a good printed dress. For me it’s that special item in my closet that makes me happy. The one, left, from Giambattista Valli is hands down a favorite. For dressy evening, the idea of the pinot noir colored gown from Celine, right, could be stunning. (If the model was standing up straight, it would look a lot more elegant, but attitude is everything at a fashion show.) Not that I ever get that dressed up. But it’s fun to dream.